Back by popular demand! Riverside dining in Minoh

Red carpet, overhead lanterns, the sound of a babbling brook, amazing meals, and gorgeous scenery. What’s not to love?
Actually, there is just one thing… Keep reading to find out.

●What is Kawayuka dining?

Kawayuka is a style of outdoor dining that combines the cool refreshing temperatures of a mountain stream with breathtaking scenery and amazing food. Written 川床, the name kawayuka derives from the words river and floor. This is the image you’re going for—a fabulous meal overlooking the natural scenery of a riverbed. Not to be confused with kawadoko, which is also written with the same characters, but differs in that the dining tables are built aloft platforms directly above a flowing river. Kawadoko dining is a longstanding tradition in the Kibune area of Kyoto. 

There are two traditional Kawayuka dining establishments located in Meiji no Mori Park in Minoh, a city in northern Osaka Prefecture. Both Isoyoshi and Otowasansou Umeyashiki are located along the hiking path leading up to Minoh Falls. They both overlook the Minoh River as it flows gently over rocks with a lush green backdrop. The restaurants are more reasonably priced than their kawadoko counterparts in  Kyoto making them a great option if you want to try riverside dining but without spending a fortune.

And any trip to Minoh is best accompanied by Minoh Beer from Osaka’s star local craft brewery! Isoyoshi offers a full drink menu including locally brewed Minoh Beer, sake, non-alcoholic beer, and a number of softdrinks to choose from as well. If drinking isn’t your cup of tea, have a cup of tea. It’s free!

●History of Kawayuka in Minoh

The beginnings of Kawayuka in Minoh date back to 1910 when tea shop terraces and rest platforms began popping up along the river near the newly opened Hankyu train station. The major attraction was a massive zoo located nearby which drew huge crowds. Visitors to the area used the terraces and platforms to relax in nature and it was presumably a very comfortable place to escape the heat of summer in a time without air conditioners.

Sadly, a series of floods washed away the original kawayuka establishments, and after many years they finally made a comeback in 2010.

Otowasansou Umeyashiki is located right across from the affiliate inn Otowasansou, with its beautiful courtyard and extravagant banquet rooms. It is also an elegant choice for weddings and receptions. And just next to the kawayuka platform there is a display room with materials on the history of Minoh, including photos of old maps and the former zoo.

▲Children take a camel ride at Minoh Zoo, which was the largest zoo in Japan at the time. It has since closed, but the pictures on display give us an interesting glimpse into the region’s past (early 1900s).

●The Meal

Meals at Minoh’s kawayuka range from ¥4,000–¥7,400 and they are fabulous. Isoyoshi offers three sets to choose from—a course meal featuring seafood and seasonal vegetables, the seafood course plus hamo (daggertooth pike conger) hotpot, and a wagyu beef sukiyaki course. Pictured here you’ll see the basic seafood course that comes with so many dishes it’s a challenge to finish—sashimi, grilled fish, crab claw, colorful seasonal vegetables, crispy tempura, pickles, soup, rice, a salt-grilled sweetfish, plus a dainty dessert. There is also a children’s meal (¥2,400) available.

Sweetfish is often served as part of course meals at kawayuka because of the pure image the fish evokes. The fish are known to inhabit very clean waterways so it reminds us of the pristine nature surrounding us as we eat. Here, grilled sweetfish is pictured with a sprout of ginger, dipping sauce and Japanese pickles. (Apparently you can eat the head or, if you prefer, simply use your chopsticks to pick out the flesh.)

Even the most basic course is satisfying and luxurious, but you can also opt to trade your rice for a bubbling hotpot of mushrooms, onions, greens, and daggertooth conger. And even if you’re already full after the tempura and bento items, the hotpot is so delicious you’ll be compelled to finish the entire meal while gazing over the magnificent scenery.

The Nature

Speaking of scenery, this brings us to the nature element of the kawayuka experience. The music of the babbling brook flowing next to you as you relax on zabuton cushions will make you feel closer to nature. Listen to the sounds of birds chirping from the pristine forest on one side and across the river you can watch hikers ascend the path towards the beloved Minoh Falls.

Surprisingly, and I can’t guarantee this will happen to you, a Japanese Yellow Hornet swooped in for a drink of my beer during my meal. The restaurant staff quickly swapped my beer glass. It seems the hornet intrusion was nothing unusual for the restaurant staff. Unsurprisingly, the hornet was hooked, just like me and lingered a bit too long in the glass of Minoh Beer.

After the meal, I continued leisurely up the gentle path to see the falls, which took about 20 minutes. And it was worth it. I will definitely be back for more kawayuka next year.

The kawayuka season in Minoh lasts from mid-April through the end of October. Make a reservation before you go to be sure you get a table and your favorite meal.