A tour of Tennoji’s backstreets
Exploring Osaka’s Izakaya

It’s been a while since I’ve had a long night out. During the height of Covid, I spent a lot of nights at home, but I’m ready to get back out a nostalgic night in some of my favorite Osaka restaurants and bars. Most places have Covid precautions in place so I’m ready to let loose and have a night of what we call hashigo-zake in Japanese—essentially bar-hopping. I’m going to Hanwa Shopping Arcade in the Ura-Tennoji neighborhood.

Entrance to Hanwa Shopping Arcade, located on the north side of Tennoji Station on the JR and Osaka Metro

Here we are at Tennoji Station, a major transportation hub in the southern part of the city. North of the station you’ll see this narrow shopping street that looks like it could be the setting of an old-time movie. The arcade pillars are reminiscent of what you would have seen in ta post-war black markets. This street can feel a little deserted in daytime, but in the evening when the izakayas start to open their shutters, the area comes alive with lights, and glowing signs welcoming customers inside.

*Please keep in mind that business hours may vary, especially when Covid restrictions are in place. Please refer to the official websites of these establishments when you plan to visit.

Ura-Tennoji’s Tanzaku menu izakaya—Taneyoshi

Taneyoshi is one of the most popular tachinomi style izakayas in the neighborhood. In case you’ve never been to a tachinomi izakaya before, just know there are no seats. It’s literally just a bar. They’re cozy and friendly and lots of fun. This is a good one to try.
And the menu is posted around the walls on hundreds of strips of paper (tanzaku). This would be a good time to get out your phone translator and perhaps just point.

They’ve got everything you would expect to see on an izakaya menu and more. They’ve got delicacies from nationwide and overseas. There’s a lot to choose from so it’s hard to decide. Plus almost everything is reasonably priced so you’ll really want to try everything. It’s such a fun atmosphere and the food is good, so they’ve always go customers. Even though it’s usually full, they do a nice job of following Covid-prevention procedures.

Here’s that famous menu, written out on tanzaku. There are over 300 items on the menu! 
One of my favorites is the jigoku tofu (hell tofu). It’s loaded with spices and hot peppers. And for some reason, it’s absolutely addicting!

Can I interest you in some turtle claws?

Here’s another funny one—the Harukas Egg Roll that tops 300 cm is named after that famous 300+ meter Osaka landmark tower.

The owner is so friendly and nice. That’s another reason this bar is so popular. She’s a great conversationalist.

Traditional tastes at Robatayaki Shinriki

If you’ve never had robatayaki, now is the time to try some! This style of cooking involves vegetables, fresh seafood, and a hot fire. And it is absolutely delicious! Originating in northern Japan, this style of cooking gained popularity in Osaka and Robatayaki Shinriki is one of Osaka’s frontrunners. This particular restaurant is over 40 years old.
Traditionally foods would be cooked piece by piece over an irori (sunken charcoal fireplace). Restaurants often mimic this style, Shinriki included, with ingredients laid out over ice facing customers so you can see how fresh everything is. Plus it’s a good way to get your appetite going and the language is universal. When you see something that looks good, you can order it to be grilled up.
The dishes are surprisingly reasonably priced too. Order sashimi, or fish to grill. They serve many foods on skewers too. The payment system is based on how many plates you have. So stack up your plates as you work your way through all the delicious seasonal foods.

Shellfish, fresh meat, seafood, and vegetables, everything grills up so nice.

Too popular for its own good—Sushi Center

Head straight through the main street in Ura-Tennoji and when you see a line of people, you know you’ve reached Sushi Center.
The line might surprise you, but anyone who wants to eat good sushi knows it’s worth the wait. Plus the service here is good and the line moves faster than you’d think.
The fish is fresh, the prices are good, and the serving sizes are generous. This is the place to go if you want quality sushi without emptying your wallet. The only thing you need to worry about is the restaurant selling out of fish—which happens regularly. We got here around 8 pm and there were already quite a few things taken off the menu.

Churanabe Akagawara, serving Okinawan delights in Osaka

Sometimes you just want to eat Okinawan food. At least that’s how I feel. This restaurant is down a different street in Tennoji, near the Osaka landmark Abeno Harukas—Japan’s tallest building. It’s just a short walk from JR Tennoji Station and Osaka Abenobashi Station on the Kintetsu Minami Osaka Line. 
The restaurant interior is so welcoming and the sound of Okinawan music fills the air. There is even an open-air terrace so it feels like you’re dining in a mini-resort.

The menu has all the Okinawan favorites like goya chanpuru (bitter gourd stir-fry) and umi budо̄ (sea grapes) and a menu of other local specialties created by the Okinawan owner/chef. Sit back with a glass of Orion Beer or choose something from the extensive Awamori (Okinawan distilled liquor) list. You’ll feel like you’re on vacation in the southern islands.

They’re famous for their Churanabe, a hot-pot made with miso and collagen, which is renowned for its health and beauty benefits.

 

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美ら鍋赤瓦 阿倍野本店(@akagawara_toru)がシェアした投稿

Osaka is full of food potential, with all of its delicious and affordable restaurants. Ura-Tennoji is a great place to start your culinary adventure. You might enjoy it a little too much. Have fun zigzagging between the izakaya in Tennoji and beyond!