So what’s inside Osaka Castle? Is it worth the price of admission?

Ever wonder what’s inside Osaka Castle’s main tower? Some people visit Osaka Castle Park and never go inside. Tons of people ask “Is it worth the price of admission?”

Osaka Castle is so beautiful viewed from the outside, and the interior isn’t the original. So why would you bother going inside? Well, let me show you…

■ First, a little history

Osaka Castle was created during a very tumultuous and climactic point in Japanese history that has captured the attention of scholars and elementary school students alike. There are three big names you need to know to understand this period—Oda Nobunaga (1534–1582), Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–1598), and Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616). The personalities of these three very powerful men, or rather their methods of dominating and uniting the country, are often summed up with this saying (translated from Japanese):

These men were the main actors in this period who are known for uniting the disparate clans and regions of the country. Essentially, Nobunaga laid the framework and was feared for his brutal nature. Hideyoshi seized the opportunity to avenge Nobunaga’s death and seize control, while Ieyasu bided his time and took the reigns after Hideyoshi’s death (by natural causes). So now that we know the main actors, let’s take a deeper look into the history and the origins of Osaka Castle.

The site of Osaka Castle was once the grounds of Ishiyama Honganji, a powerful and influential monastery turned massive temple complex that was first built in 1496. Because of its reputation for being inconquerable, Oda Nobunaga, who fought mercilessly to unify the nation, had the temple burned to the ground in 1580.

Just two years later, Nobunaga was killed during a turn of events at Honnoji Temple in Kyoto and it was Toyotomi Hideyoshi who avenged his death, thus seizing control of Nobunaga’s massive territory. The following year, in 1583, the original Osaka Castle (Toyotomi’s Castle) was built near the site of the former Ishiyama Honganji Temple in Osaka under orders from Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

The other important figure—Tokugawa Ieyasu—while often aligned on the same side of battle as Hideyoshi, he was a major rival and was sent to live in Edo, a small fishing village far from the seat of power. This small out-of-the-way village eventually grew into modern-day Tokyo. Ieyasu plotted for years before seizing control of the Shogunate in 1600 after Hideyoshi’s death and eventually defeated Hideyoshi’s descendants and their loyalist forces at Osaka in 1615. Thus the first Osaka Castle was destroyed.

In 1620 the Tokugawa shogunate began reconstructing a second version of the castle, a major effort that took 10 years to complete. The main building of this castle, was also unfortunately lost to history when it was struck by lightning in 1665. Remaining structures were destroyed further as the years wore on.

Finally, in 1931 the main castle was again rebuilt and the area around it was later opened as a public park. This third rendition of the tower shares elements of both versions of the previous Osaka Castles, but heavily resembles the Ieyasu castle keep. Which is so surprising! We think of Osaka Castle as the stronghold of the Toyotomi clan, but the castle we see today is actually a reconstruction of the castle built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s greatest enemy!

■ Getting there

Since the park is pretty big, there are lots of train stations within walking distance of Osaka Castle Park—Morinomiya Station (on the Osaka Metro Chuo Line or JR), Tanimachi 4-chome Station (on the Osaka Metro Chuo or Tanimachi Line), Morinomiya Station (on the JR Osaka Loop Line), Osakajokoen Station (on the JR Osaka Loop Line), and Temmabashi Station (on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line or Keihan Main Line), Osakajokitazume Station (on the JR Tozai Line)… You can even walk from Osaka Business Park (on the Osaka Metro Nagahori Tsurumi-ryokuchi Line).

I chose the Tanimachi 4-chome Station since it’s on the Chuo Line and has a comparatively short walk up to the Castle’s Main Tower. Exit 1-B puts you right in front of the Osaka History Museum and you can take a close-up look at the old Hoenzaka Warehouse replica. Great warehouses like this once stood here during the fifth century and reminds us that this spot has historically been an powerful stronghold.

■ All the accessories—Gates, Turrets, & Stone Walls

When you enter the park from this southwest corner you’re close to Otemon Gate, which is gorgeous and you get a great view of Sengan Yagura, the oldest building remaining in the park. This turret was built in 1620, meaning it was one of the earliest buildings completed during the second construction of the castle. It would have served as a lookout point to protect Otemon Gate from an enemy attack. You can actually go inside the turret on certain holidays & weekends if you purchase a ticket at the Nishinomaru Garden ticket counter, which you’ll pass as on the way to the Main Tower.

The many gates are all so beautifully photogenic, especially Sakuramon Gate. As you peer through the gate, you’ll see the Main Tower decked out in glittering gold, shockingly bright white, and a dreamy patina green just beyond another stone wall. The square gate surrounds the castle tower like a perfectly placed picture frame.

Ogle at the massive stones in the castle walls.
Just inside the Sakuramon Gate, you’ll see this huge stone, known as Takoishi or Octopus Stone. It’s the largest in the park and weighs approximately 108 tons. Look hard at the markings on the stone and see if you can make out the octopus shape. (Hint: It’s on the left side.) This particular rock was transported all the way from Inujima Island in the Seto Inland Sea. Can you imagine how difficult that must’ve been to transport something this heavy?

Look around on your way up to the castle and you may notice rocks indented with a row of holes. They’re visual evidence of the method used to split granite during the Edo period (1603–1867). A skilled stoneworker would read the grain of the rock before drilling these holes, then driving wedges into the rock to split the granite.

The stone walls you see today were primarily built between 1620–1629 and are comprised of rocks from various parts of Japan. After defeating the Toyotomi family in Osaka, the Tokugawa Shogunate ordered the Daimyo (feudal lords) of Western Japan to construct the castle walls as a means of both securing their loyalty and occupying them should they try to rise against his forces again.
If you have a really good eye, or perhaps a map you’ll be able to find the distinctive family crest markings carved into stones indicating which Daimyo built the walls. This is the ultimate scavenger hunt!

I found this map inside the museum, which brings us to the main topic—What’s inside the museum?

■ Inside the tower—Museum Exhibits

Finally, Osaka Castle Museum! As stated above, the Main Tower you see today is not the original built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, nor is it the second incarnation of Osaka Castle Tower, built by the Tokugawa Shogunate. This is actually the third version of the castle tower and it was built in 1931. You can call it Osaka Castle the Third if you like…

Although the interior is not the original, there is still a lot of history lurking inside the castle keep. Let’s start at the bottom and work our way up.

■ So is it worth the price of admission?

I think so! Do you like history? Want to imagine what it would have been like to peer out over the castle domain some 400+ years ago? Want to see an actual surcoat worn by Toyotomi Hideyoshi?

If you answered yes to any of those questions, then ABSOLUTELY visit the museum!
The museum is only ¥600 for adults and free for those junior high school age and younger. You can get a small discount ticket if you purchased a one-day Osaka Metro pass. You can also save a few yen with a discounted ticket like the Osaka History Museum and Osaka Castle Museum set ticket for ¥1,000 or the Suijo Bus and Osaka Castle Museum ticket for ¥2,000. Admission is free if you have purchased the Osaka Amazing Pass.

And if you visit in the daytime, definitely stop at the nearby Bluebirds Rooftop Terrace in the adjacent Miraiza building. Reserve a table for BBQ or simply drop in for a drink!

*The castle museum is wheelchair accessible and there is also an accessible bathroom on the second floor.
*The diaper changing table is located in the women’s bathroom on the second floor.
*Normally, you can rent a battle helmet & surcoat for pictures inside the museum, however this experience is temporarily closed due to covid.

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